Back and forth, hither and yon – whether on my habitual trajectory between Touraine and Paris or further afield… destinations, encounters, events and observations I can’t resist sharing.
Sensing a wince of regret. Certain places you hesitate sharing, like the stellar friend you’re reluctant to introduce around for fear of diluting your quota of their affection. So I’ve stalled, but failed to repress sparkling flashbacks of Tamariu’s low key charm and exceptional setting.
Sampler of its seductions:
Clearest European seawater I’ve experienced that isn’t icy cold.
Kaleidoscopic trove of softly rounded stones at water’s edge you can’t resist pocketing.
Family tableau featuring three generations of women reclining in scant bikinis or topless – looking more comfortable in their skin than modesty police could bear.
Vertiginous hike along the shoreline to a beach shack bistro one cove over, accessible only by foot or boat. Clambering over rocks, then up and down a narrow path along the pine shaded precipice. Unfortunately it was off-season and the kitchen closed just as we scrambled down the hot cliff side at 14h30. Settled for scrumptious potato chips, a cool San Migel and marveling at the craggy scenery, before confronting the half hour return trek.
Tamariu is fishing village resort gem – crescent moon beach ringed by a boardwalk with a couple of shops and a few more restaurants, all cradled within a backdrop of rocky coastline and a steeply rising pine-covered hillside.
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Visiting old friends in Tarn et Garonne, a southern department even the French have difficulty locating. Quercy Blanc is the historic name for this midsection of the Midi-Pyrénées between Cahors and Toulouse. It’s the Tuscany of France, with an undulating landscape of sheep and cattle pasture, sunflower fields, chasselas vineyards and tidy industrial orchards of apricots, plum, cherry and walnut trees. A succession of gorgeous views are revealed at every twist along the sinuous road. The round, green-gold chasselas grape, which is eaten rather than fermented for wine, is the principal crop.
After honing country French renovation skills on a home in the Loire valley, our Australian friends were ready to tackle a seriously daunting project. They fell for an ancient fortified chateau on the plateau of a hill, whose stocky central tower was first ransacked in the 13th century. Successive building campaigns in the 16th, 18th and 19th centuries failed to sustain momentum, and it had declined to a forlorn state of decrepitude. A tailor made challenge for two artists with vision and a history of savvy real estate investments in Sydney, London and Paris to bolster their courage. Read More »
Rentrée scolaire took place Thursday – one of the loveliest days of the season. Luckily it’s a short school week, because Paris clearly isn’t ready to bid adieu to sunning and swimming.
The city has 38 public pools, none more inviting than floating Piscine Joséphine Baker, moored at port de la Gare, in the shadow of the BNF (Biliothèque nationale de France) towers. During my morning run, I check out the sun deck from a footbridge linking the BNF plaza to de Bercy across the Seine. Friday it was packed by midday, so vacation must still be on for some. They offer an aqua gym and fitness program, and when cool weather hits, a retractable roof encloses the open air piscine. Read More »
Manoir de la Pagerie in Ternay, a Rhone Valley town of 4000, 15 minutes from Lyon and 10 from Gallo Roman Vienne, is more suburban oasis than “Country Hideaway” – a cool respite from the encroaching metropole and convenient base for sampling the cultural and culinary attractions of the region.
Once through the entry gate, you’re swept into an improbably lush park shaded by centennial trees, with a pool discreetly nestled behind a tall hedge. Don’t be put off by the impression created from the street, where the house appears to be row of homes. The owners have resisted renovating the street facing facade to discourage unwanted attention.
Spent a few days in London mid June – a trip I try to manage every few months. Between Ryan Air flights from Tours to Stansted and the EuroStar train, the voyage is rapid, convenient and inexpensive (when booked in advance). London’s enormous size, combined with its dense history, vibrant contemporary culture and the most international flavor of any capital I know – offer infinite fields of discovery and this time, on advice from an artist friend, I set off to explore around Old Spitalfields Market, www.visitspitalfields.com – London’s trendy-with-grit fashion/foodie/flea market hub. Liverpool Station is a convenient Tube stop.
May is when things get going in the potager. The first radishes plump up, baby lettuce, arugula and spinach are lustrous and strawberries begin to ripen.
Our potager is a bit of a laggard because of a predominantly northern orientation (along the fence line), with southern light filtered by an ancient hawthorn hedge that developed into a row of trees. Read More »
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