Back and forth, hither and yon – whether on my habitual trajectory between Touraine and Paris or further afield… destinations, encounters, events and observations I can’t resist sharing.

Manoir de la Pagerie

August 19, 2010

Manoir de la Pagerie in Ternay, a Rhone Valley town of 4000, 15 minutes from Lyon and 10 from Gallo Roman Vienne, is more suburban oasis than “Country Hideaway”  – a cool respite from the encroaching metropole and convenient base for sampling the cultural and culinary attractions of the region.

Once through the entry gate, you’re swept into an improbably lush park shaded by centennial trees, with a pool discreetly nestled behind a tall hedge. Don’t be put off by the impression created from the street, where the house appears to be row of homes. The owners have resisted renovating the street facing facade to discourage unwanted attention.

Raphaëlle Roux de Chavanes converted a wing of the gracious manor inherited by her husband into a guest house five years ago. The decor is updated  country French, featuring a mix of heirlooms, brocante finds and curios the couple accumulated during a decade expatriated in West Africa and the Antilles.

A healthful breakfast served in the guest house sitting room or adjoining terrace is included.

pagerie_5Passing through overnight, we missed out on the Jazz à Vienne festival, celebrating its 30th edition June 25 to July 9.   A diverse roster of  established and emerging talent includes Norah Jones, Dee Dee Bridgewater, Wayne Shorter, Manhattan Transfer, Dianne Krall, Elvis Costello and Piers Faccini. Headliners perform in the Roman Theatre.

La Pagerie is conveniently near an impressive range of restaurants in and around Lyons. A last minute cancellation opened up a table at popular Chez Paul ‘O on l’isle de la Table Ronde, between Vernaisson and Solaize. A big part its appeal is the idyllic location at the end of a funky dirt road.  A broad teak terrace built around tall trees with clever outdoor lighting gives it a festive guingette feel.
Tél. : 04 78 46 06 47.

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